A Fabulous 15 foot Rowboat

One of the most unique aspects of the St. Lawrence River Skiff (SLRS) is its hull shape which we believe derives from the bark canoes, at least partly. Both hull forms feature a very fine entry and exit to the waterlines. However, on nearly all the St. Lawrence River Skiffs, their after sections are finer than the forward sections.

The bow of an 18-footer, Annie.

Many rowboats show the opposite, with the aft sections being fuller. The reasoning behind this SLRS hull form regards how the boat trims when under power (oar power, of course). Once the boat is up to speed, the aft part of the hull settles into the water creating a skeg-type effect. A skeg improves tracking of the hull through the water. But by making the hull itself behave as a skeg, we eliminate the extra wetted surface area (WSA in designer speak) that a skeg creates. Any rower knows one tenet of making a rowboat fast: reduce the wetted surface area! This is one reason the SLRS glides along effortlessly with a single stroke of an oar, creating a feeling of flying.

Here is a shot showing the Fry 15 being stripped up. We built the Fry Skiff in 2013 at WoodenBoat using strip-composite construction. A builder by the name of Fry built these circa 1910 in Clayton, NY. The first shot (left) is the bow. The second (right) is the stern view.

You can see (right) how the strips are fairing into the stern with slight concave curvature even before weve stripped to the designed waterline. The strips are not showing this hollow curvature quite yet in the bow (left). This 15-foot model, shows a pronounced hollow even for a SLRS, partly because the boat is pretty short for a Skiff. (In fact, it is the shortest Id recommend for fast rowing. I chose the Fry 15-footer because it is going to be the cartopper in my catalog.)




So this is the fineness or hollow in the stern that I am asserting is a classic feature of the SLRS hull form, making the it such a slippery, fast rowboat.

Two other SLRSs that I am working with, the Bobby at 20 1/2 (which was strip-built in 2012) and Clotilde at 18, are true double-enders, meaning they are symmetrical. So one end is not finer than the other, but their waterlines still show a strong hollow fore and aft. Clotilde is unique because its hull is fairly full in the ends compared to the other SLRS, which has me interested because it may be a faster boat and better in a seaway. So I plan to also model this hull and develop mold kits for Clotilde as well. Bobby mold kits are available.

For the first time, the Fry Skiff is newly updated and ready to cut as a mold kit. She strips up perfectly and produces a hull that is fairer than any hand-lofted set of lines could hope to produce, I dare say. The molds receive a roundovered edge so the soft cedar is not dented. A dado is routed into the molds to make a place for squeeze clamps to hold strips in place. The stems are laminated on fore-aft molds. An alignment batten slots all the molds together in place to ensure squareness and proper spacing. The kit is $750 which includes plans package and the molds.

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Wood choices and AMYA rules for Star45 Class

Hulls may be planked using any number of types of wood, including thin aircraft plywood, cedar, balsa, etc.

The Star 45 is a terrific boat for sport sailing and family fun. If you want to race other Star 45s you should build to the AMYA Class rules.

Here are key 2006 AMYA Star 45 Class Rules,section 1.0 Hull:

1.1 The Star 45 Class establishes as their approved plans a set of lines and drawings as the approved reference and construction plans for the class. These plans are scaled and appropriately modified for the use of modelers building a 45-inch model of the Star Boat. Existing plans supplied by kit manufacturers, etc. are grandfathered. New molds, plugs and scratch built models shall conform to the approved plans and specifications.

1.2 Hull length will be 45 inches (plus or minus one half (1/2) inch overall. (NOTE: this does not include any chain plate for backstay attachment, or 1/4 inch bow bumper if used. However, if the chain plate is attached to the transom or overhangs the transom, it may not extend beyond the transom more than 3/8 of a inch.) Hulls may not be less than 11 inches nor exceed 12 inches in beam when measured at the widest point on the deck. (Rubrails are not included in measuring but will not exceed 1/4 inch of thickness/width.)

1.3 In the event of a builder choosing to scratch or hand build a Star 45 Yacht, the builder must adhere to the class approved reference and construction drawings, as obtained from the AMYA Ships Store, as in the builders ability. A second consideration in scratch building is to ensure that safe and sound building practice be maintained.

1.4 All hulls will be constructed of wood or fiberglass or a combination of wood and fiberglass and be a minimum of 16 ounces when weighed before attachment of the deck and keel. This weight must be verified by another member of the Star 45 Class using the Class Measurement Form.

1.5 Decks shall be constructed of wood, fiberglass or plastic laminate material.

1.6 All hulls shall be the standard hard-chine hull. Hulls may be built with a sheer at scale height or with a sheer no more than one inch higher than scale (when measured at the point of maximum depth of sheer.)

1.7 All fiberglass and wood hulls will have a name plate permanently attached to the inside of the hull so as to be seen when the hatch cover is removed.

1.8 At or before its first Sanctioned Regatta the newly built model yacht must be measured using, as reference, the approved measurement form and signed by not less than the owner of the model yacht and one other member of the class. This measurement form shall become, with the registration card, a permanent record of this model yacht.

1.9 The AMYA Star 45 Class recognizes and approves the molds and manufacturer and/or kit packagers of Star 45 molded hulls and kits in existence at the time of approval of these specifications. These sources will be approved sources for the class. New manufacturers will be directed to submit the first of their product to the Class Secretary for approval.

1.10 No maximum weight is specified, however, no yacht will weigh less than 12 pounds when fully rigged ready to sail. This means with all gear, rigging, sails, radio components, batteries and ballast placed and secured on board.

1.11 Bow Bumpers are mandatory for all class registered STAR 45 yachts. Bow bumpers are limited to three eights of an inch (3/8") overhang. Bow bumpers shall be excluded in the overall length measurement, whether recessed in or otherwise attached to the bow stem. Bow bumpers must be of resilient fabrication to minimize damage to another yacht in the event of a collision.

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Back in the USA

The Honcho rested a couple of days in Ensenada, but there was no reason to stick around longer than that. So just after midnight on June 21st, we cast off for the last time from a Mexican port. It was sad to say goodbye to this country that we have come to know and love, but with a smooth sea and light winds in the forecast, it was a good time to head north to the USA. Over the last seven months we experienced much of Mexico, but we realize that there is so much more to see and do in this lovely, friendly country that weve already vowed to come back as soon as possible.

Approaching Ensenada harbor. A cruise ship and the citys trademark enormous flag are quintessential elements of Ensenadas personality.

The Honcho at the dock in CruisePort Marina. The flag is about half a mile away. 

We cleared the breakwater and set a course that would take the Honcho northwest past Punta Salsipuedes and toward the Islas Coronados, the last Mexican territory before crossing the imaginary line in the ocean that marks the boundary between Mexico and the USA. We crossed that line at 0930 and almost immediately the morning haze lifted and the skyscrapers in downtown San Diego began to come into view.

A dolphin cruises along with the Honcho, San Diego skyline in the background.

At the same time, the VHF radio was crackling with warnings about a nuclear sub that would be departing from the submarine base in San Diego. It came into view when we were a couple of miles from the harbor entrance buoy and we slowed down almost to a stop to give that enormous and lethal looking warship room to pass by.

The photo doesnt show how big this ship is. There are a couple of sailors standing on top of the sail in this photo as it exited the harbor. Within a few minutes it submerged, bound on some mysterious mission. 

Shortly after the sub disappeared we entered the harbor and headed for the police dock on Shelter Island, where we were met by the customs agents and officially cleared into the USA. We were also met at the dock by our good friends Tom and Mary Ellen, who arranged for a guest slip for us at Southwestern Yacht Club and brought a care package of my favorite wine and some gourmet delights from Trader Joes. We quickly squared the boat away and drank several toasts to good friends and voyages completed, then repaired to the yacht club dining room for an excellent dinner. As much as we love Mexico, its great to be back in the USA.

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Glued Lapstrake clinker Plank Fairing

Glued-lapstrake is a deservedly popular method for building one-off boats in wood/epoxy - for a number of good reasons. In the case of the amateur and small-time professional builder it gives just about the fastest path to a handsome, round-bilged hull, with the added benefits of being light, strong, attractive given the plank lap lines. Very importantly, the building jig is simple and easy to build.

Ill write more about the particular advantages of the glued-lapstrake building method in another posting, and Ive previously pointed out the way in which a fine entrance combined with the prominant plank laps keeps spray knocked down in a fashion similar to sprayrails.

In the above video, you can see how well the plank laps work at knocking down spray, although the boat (my Periwinkle design) is running in very light winds - but you can clearly see the principle.

To get back to the point, one particular advantage of glued-lapstrake construction is that the building jig need only consist of relatively few, widely-spaced molds or frames, with the plywood planks bridging the gaps between the molds in a fair curve.

Here is a typical glued-lapstrake jig, showing widely spaced molds made from disposable material. In this case the boat was a Francois Vivier-designed Aber which I built for a customer about five years ago.

Plywood is a wonderful material if you can locate good-quality sheets, but one of its virtues is also a liability. Plywood is of almost equal strength in all directions, and is frequently used in much reduced thickness compared with solid timber. The problem is that very occasionally the planks may tend to flatten out between the molds.

Plywood planks going on over widely-spaced frames and molds. This is Periwinkle

Some people put stringers into their molds, but this adds a lot of complexity to what should be a simple set-up, and adds considerably to the cost of the mold. In addition, it makes removing the boat from the mold difficult, especially if the boat has any tumble-home (that is where the sides of the boat curve in towards the centreline of the boat as they get towards the gunwale as frequently seen on "Canadian" canoes for example).

If the building jig is a simple one without stringers, it is easy to access the inside of the boat during construction, and when it comes time to remove the boat from the jig, all one has to do is knock the individual molds out one at a time.

However, there are occasions where the thin planking refuses to lie in a smooth, fair curve - usually just in a few odd places. When I am faced with that situation I use a technique where a stringer, or batten, is applied to the outside  of the hull. It need not even be a full-length batten - just enough length is required to span three or four molds. Temporary plank fasteners are driven through the batten to hold the plank while glue is curing, just as in the rest of the planking job.

Here you can see a temporary batten sitting over a plank lap on the original Periwinkle. There was a little flatness towards the bow (which has been fixed now with a minor alteration to the plans)

Close-up of the batten showing how it sits over the plank lap, and also showing where one of the temporary fasteners has been driven through.

For a job such as this you can usually get away with a single batten, re-used on subsequent planks if and where required. On Periwinkle the batten shown did the entire boat. But it needs to be empasised that the extra fairing is very rarely needed - but it is nice to have the technique available in situations where the ply is a bit too limber, or there is an inaccuracy in the jig.

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FLINT A Major Journey Planned

Some while ago, I wrote a post about my rowing boat design Flint, in which I described the activities of Alec Morgan. Alec has been using his Flint heavily over the years and has made some significant coastal journeys in the area between the Gold Coast and Brisbane on Australias east coast.

Alecs Flint, photgraphed by him during a beachcruising trip

Alec is now setting up for his most ambitious trip yet, and has started a Blog about the expedition.

You can find Alecs Blog here.

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The Star 45 is a one design class of model yachts

PondYachtworks in Scottsdale, AZ.

American Model Yachting Association Star 45 Class

The Star 45 is a one design class of model yachts recognized by the American Model Yacht Association. This boat is 45" long with a minumum weight of 12 pounds. The design is a semiscale model of a International Star. These boats can be scratchbuilt, from a kit or purchased complete.

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Chippendale Sprite

Thanks to Chris Partridge of Rowing for Pleasure blog who offers his Chippendale Sprite, Snarleyow.

It is a 15ft sliding seat rowing skiff, designed by Andrew Wolstenholme and made from a kit supplied by Jack Chippendale.

It must be close to being perfect as a recreational rowing boat. The hull is fast and easy to push along, light enough to car top and carry to the water, stable and capable of surviving the worst conditions Chichester Harbour has to offer.
The kit is easy to put together too - it is a simple stitch and glue assembly and the moulds cleverly become the boats frames.



I made a kit up many years ago but didnt use it much because I was living miles away from the water, but when I moved down to Chichester I found another for sale. It got me back on the water, at just the right time. I think if I had carried on doing as little exercise as I was, I would have been carried off by a cardiac arrest by now.

Over the last ten years, Snarleyow has been in continuous use and has been a joy.

The Sprite is now supplied by Seabird Boats in Rye .

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