The End of the First Build Year

The planking was completed in a total of 320 working hours.

December was mostly spent in fairing (smoothing and shaping) the hull, and cleaning the inside of excess epoxy.

Pencil marks were spread across the hull. As the fairing progressed, removing any high spots, the marks disappeared.

The Festool Rotex was the original tool used. It is an aggressive cutter. It has a 6" disc and is a combo rotary and random orbit sander. It worked best for cutting down the high areas of epoxy, and later for aggressively cleaning up the inside.

The Hutchins Eliminator with its 8" disc, is a rotary sander that blends high and low areas the best.

An inline sander was applied to a "fairing board". It will be used in an attempt to create the "ultimate smooth" for the pre-glass finish.

After smoothing the high spots, any low spots were filled with a mixture of phenolic micro spheres, wood flour and epoxy. The wood flour is for non-sag structure, while the micro spheres make the sanding easier once it has dried.

Richard dons his Tyvek (AKA sperm suit) with his 3M Breathe Easy self contained positive pressure hood for the sanding jobs. Cedar and epoxy dust are a bad combo.

The process involved frequent sweat breaks.

A more tedious job than the planking....

After the highs and lows were smoothed, a mixture of epoxy and wood flour was used to fill all screw holes and other voids.

The inside was cleaned up with the aggressive Festool Rotex. I finally climbed inside to view the job. The pressurized hood was an absolute must for this job.

The laminated frames and bulkheads as structural supports are clear.

This is the view looking up toward the engine compartment and lazarettes.

The holes are baffles between the water storage compartments under the sole. All surfaces, hole interiors, etc will be meticulously glassed and epoxied. No water will be allowed to touch any wood. The center board configuration makes drainage of bilges and water compartments slightly more complicated, as there is no right to left connection or central bilge. Since numerous bilge and water pumps will be necessary, we will look at it as bilge and water pump redundancy...


The centerboard box meets up with the bulkhead to form the back of the galley sink cabinet.


The plan for the bulkheads is to cover them with white painted bead board and trim in mahogany, for a very traditional, light look. Most of the "walls" will be covered by cabinetry.

Between these two rounded bulkheads is the Navigation Table. Note the feet working on the outside of the hull...

This is looking forward from the saloon into the storage and head area.

Here is a good view of the laminated frames that create the open area in the main saloon.

The end of the month was when the boat was made mobile for the first time!

The strong back was detached from the floor, and a series of 8 casters were placed under custom boxes. She can be moved by using a little lever action.

Now that she has her own rigidity from the planking she will be able to be pushed from side to side in the small room she inhabits. This will allow her to be positioned better for the diagonal veneer application. Next step...order the veneer.

The grand total of working hours to date is 1150 hours. That is with 13 "no work" weeks.

Lets see what 2010 will bring! Peace and health to all!

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Build a Model Sailboat !!

The information used for the " Model Sail Boat Building, Making A Wooden Star45 R/C Sailing Model" includes posts found on the companion blog: The Star 45 R/C Model Sail Boat - Builders Journal


"Model Sail Boat Building, Making A Wooden Star45 R/C Sailing Model" is a start to finish, step by step, building manual. Including directions for covering a wooden star with fiberglass.

With the popularity of radio-controlled models, the number of people interested in owning a model yacht has also grown - in geometric range. As with model aircraft, the choice of sailing models runs the gamut from childs toy to sophisticated craft.

Over the past 30 years I have fielded many questions regarding the choices and considerations which go into selecting a radio-controlled sailboat.

Four questions are asked over and over by prospective skippers: How do the radio-controls work? How much do they cost? What do I look for when I buy mine? And, where can I get plans and instructions for building a sailing model?

The modern R/C model sailing craft is as different from a toy boat as a museum display model is from a childs tinker-toy creation. A model sailing craft operates with the same sophistication of design as any full-sized yacht

The AMYA STAR 45 Class discussion group is a terrific place to exchange ideas and talk about building Star 45 models for racing in AMYA regattas.

Feel free to contact me, Dave Mainwaring mainwaring @ rcn.com

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Dix 470 Catamaran Kit Build in UK

Kevin Bream is the owner of Exocetus Catamaran Kits in UK, the company that he formed to develop kits for our plywood catamaran designs and to market them to builders, both professional and amateur. To be sure that he does a proper job of this, he is building the Dix 470 himself, to test the fit of all parts and to develop systems to ease the whole construction process.

The number of plywood components in a boat like this is massive. Just the thought of figuring the size and shape for each one, then cutting it out before fitting it in place on the boat, can make the project being contemplated seem very intimidating. Anything that can be done to reduce the number of hours in the build and the flow of elbow grease from builder into the boat is worthy of consideration. It reduces building time for any kind of builder. For a boatyard it increases profits and for the amateur it gets him afloat and sailing sooner.

Kevin Bream has one hull completed and is now working on the second. Lessons that he learned while building the first hull have been put into making a better product. Aside from that, anyone who buys a kit from Exocetus will benefit from a product that has been built by the supplier himself. Who could provide better backup support to the builders than he who has done the development, the cutting and the building before them?

Here are recent photos of the project.

The workshop of Exocetus Catamaran Kits, first hull on the right.

Completed Dix 470 starboard hull, waiting for its mate.

Self-jigging building stocks, bolted to the concrete slab.

Interlocking bulkheads & backbone assembled, stringers in progress.

Daggerboard casing. This boat can have cruising keels or daggerboards.

Skeleton of port hull, ready for skin. The jigsaw joints are visible at panel edges.

Skeleton with side skin being dry-fitted to test for proper fit.

Stern detail of starboard hull, showing swim platform.

Exocetus Catamaran Kits can also supply similar kits for the bigger sister, the DH550.

To see more about these designs, as well as others of all types and materials, please visit http://dixdesign.com/

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Beginning the Build

Prior to starting the project, about 6 months were spent scouring the internet and reading such books as Buehlers Backyard Boat Building, The Laminated Wood Boat Builder, and of course, Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction. There are so many techniques and many opinions on the best methods for building wood epoxy boats. It is hard for the un-intiated to determine what would be the best procedure and materials to use, and all the available plans seem to use slightly different methods.

One of the features we liked about the NorthSea was that the permanent bulkheads were shaped and used as frames for the strip planking. There were also several laminated rib type frames. All of these shapes were plotted from the "off sets" provided in the plans. In order to draw these from the off sets, a little bit of lofting was required.


In December of 2008, we created a lofting table that flipped down from the wall to save valuable space. It was, of course, Janes job to do the knee busting work of grid drawing.



The grids were then labelled by the distance above and below the designed water line (DWL), and then to the right or left of center. These points were then used to plot the provided off sets at each station (cross section of the hull). This created the shape of the frame to be laminated or the bulkhead to be cut from marine plywood.



Here is where we started to see the shape she would eventually take. This was bulkhead at a station near the bow.

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Didi 950 Keel Build by Howdy Bailey

Howdy Bailey Yacht Services in Norfolk, Virginia, is building the keel for the Didi 950 project in Ohio. This one has a fixed keel that is supported by a steel box on the inside of the hull and which is bolted to the grid structure. The box also forms the engine beds, to concentrate these major weights in a tight area for low pitching characteristics in lumpy water.

Howdy and his staff are doing a masterful job of building this keel, which is assembled over a rigid skeleton of schedule pipes between end plates. The side plates are wrapped over the skeleton and plug welded.

One of Howdys staff welding the keel structure.

Completed keel skeleton with pre-formed side plates awaiting fitting.

Same stage, looking at the top plate.

The tubular internal skeleton, instead of transverse plate spacers, has multiple benefits. The pipes make the skeleton very rigid to resist twisting when fitting the side plates, they have soft surfaces to minimise hard spots that can distort the side plates, they present broad surfaces for plug welding the side plates and they serve as efficient heat sinks to draw heat away from the plug welds, minimising heat distortion.

The keel bolts bear on the keel box inside the hull, sandwiching the hull skin between the the two. Howdy Bailey Yacht Services fabricated the box as well, then shipped it to the builder. He has test-fitted the Beta 15hp motor on the beds ahead of installing the box into the boat. The following photos show the box with engine standing on the integral engine beds.

Didi 950 keel support box front view.

Beta 15 being test-fitted on the engine beds.

Aft view. The holes are for shaft, exhaust and ventilation.

Finding a suitably qualified engineering company to make the keel is often a worry for people considering building an offshore boat. Howdy and his staff have the experience and are available for this work.

To see more of our designs, visit our website at http://dixdesign.com/.

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Build a Model

The vast majority of my plans customers seem to be first-timers, and the building process - particularly visualisation - can be quite intimidating. Without any shadow of a doubt there are three primary aids in making a good start: -

• reading the correct text books (be extremely cautious about internet forums);
• spend plenty of time studying the plans;
• build a scale model.

The first two are self-explanatory, and I provide a recommended reading list with my plans, and try to make the plans detailed, supported by a comprehensive set of instructions.

Phoenix III plans - 30 sheets of A3 drawings and 50 pages of illustrated instructions.

Making a scale model is relatively simple if you follow the plans of the full-szed boat. The model doesnt have to be a masterpiece, but should follow exactly the sequence of constrution as specified in the plans.

Sometimes I build an exact replica using scale thickness plywood and scale thickness lumber of the same density as the full-sized boat. This allows me to test trim, stability, flotation and other elements of the design. At other times, I model only a section of the boat to examine things such as panel developments and curvature.

Hull panels for my Three Brothers design cut from 1.5mm Hoop Pine marine plywood to produce a 1/8th scale model.

Scale stitch-and-glue process

Hull panel developments being tested.

Anticipated shape confirmed as being developable

Sometimes people find it difficult to locate scale thickness plywood, but using balsa or other timber can still produce a worthwhile model for shape visualisation, and to help one understand the construction process.

Dan Taylors model of Phoenix III

Another photo of Dan Taylors Phoenix III

My good friend Doug Laver is building a model of First Mate just for the fun of it. He intends sailing the boat using radio control, and has replaced the centreboard with a ballasted fin keel to make up for the lack of crew weight out on the gunwale.

Dougs First Mate parts cut at 1/5th scale using plywood

Lots of little clamps in use

Ballast keel inserted in centreboard case from below

First Mate waiting for her lead ballast and her rig

Modelling may appear to be a time-consuming business, but in the long run it usually saves time - and it is fun!

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